Everything we’d tell you before you paint.

01Understanding paint types

Almost every can of house paint sold in Canada today is one of two families, and choosing the right one matters more than the brand on the label.

• Water-based (latex and acrylic). The standard for walls, ceilings and most exteriors. Dries in an hour or two, cleans up with water, stays flexible and doesn’t yellow. “Latex” is an old name; modern water-based paints use acrylic or vinyl-acrylic resins, and 100% acrylic is the premium, most flexible and most weather-resistant version, which is what you want outside in Ottawa.
• Oil-based (alkyd). Hard, smooth and slow to dry, traditionally used on trim, doors and cabinets. It has strong odours, cleans up with solvents and yellows over time. Federal VOC limits have restricted many solvent-based products, so true oil paint is harder to find and has largely been replaced by waterborne alkyd enamels that level and harden like oil but clean up with water.
• Specialty coatings. Primers, stain blockers, direct-to-metal paints, floor paints, cabinet enamels, mineral silicate paints and limewash each solve a specific problem. We cover the important ones below.

One rule worth remembering: water-based paint can go over old oil paint only after the surface is cleaned, dulled with sandpaper and primed with a bonding primer. Skipping that step is one of the most common reasons trim paint peels.

02Choosing paint for each surface

Even an expensive paint will fail on the wrong surface. Here’s a quick guide to matching the product to what you’re painting.

On vinyl siding, colour matters as much as the paint. Darker colours absorb more heat and can warp vinyl unless they’re on the paint maker’s vinyl-safe list. Those lists now include many mid-tone and some darker shades, so you’re not limited to the original colour, but stay within them.

03Sheens and how they hide flaws

Sheen isn’t only about shine. The glossier the finish, the more light it reflects, and the more it shows every dent, nail pop and drywall seam. Flatter finishes hide flaws but mark more easily.

1. Flat / matte. Absorbs light. Best on ceilings, in quiet rooms and on older, uneven walls. Modern premium mattes are more washable than they used to be, but they still don’t suit hallways and kids’ rooms.
2. Eggshell / low-lustre. The everyday choice for living rooms, bedrooms and dining rooms: a soft, velvety look that wipes clean.
3. Satin / pearl. More durable and scrubbable. Good for kitchens, bathrooms, mudrooms, hallways and kids’ rooms.
4. Semi-gloss. The standard for trim, doors and baseboards. Stands up to vacuum bumps and hands.
5. Gloss. The hardest and shiniest. Best kept for doors, railings and accents on very smooth surfaces.

Sheen names aren’t standardized between brands, so one maker’s eggshell can look like another’s satin. Look at a painted sample, not just the label.

04How much paint do you need?

Running out halfway means a second trip and possibly a slightly different batch; buying far too much wastes money. The math is simple once you know the coverage.

• Smooth walls: roughly 350–400 sq ft per US gallon (3.78 L) per coat with a premium paint.
• Textured walls, stucco and masonry: about 200–250 sq ft per gallon per coat, because texture holds more paint.
• Subtract openings: about 20 sq ft for a standard door and 15 sq ft for an average window.
• Add about 10% for cutting in, roller absorption and touch-ups.

Canadian stores sell paint in 3.78 L cans (one US gallon) and 946 mL quarts. If you need more than one can of the same colour, ask the store to mix them together, or “box” them yourself by pouring them into a larger bucket, so the colour is consistent across the room.

05Low-VOC paint and disposal

VOCs (volatile organic compounds) are solvents that evaporate as paint dries, causing much of the “fresh paint” smell. Canada caps VOC levels in architectural paints, and most premium interior lines now have low- or zero-VOC bases.

• Zero-VOC applies to the base. Some colourants add VOCs back, especially in deep colours. Many makers now offer zero-VOC colourant systems too; ask if it matters to you.
• Low odour isn’t no ventilation. Keep air moving while paint dries, especially in winter when windows stay closed.
• Never pour paint down a drain or into a storm sewer.
• Leftover paint: Ontario’s paint stewardship program accepts leftover paint and empty cans at participating retailers and depots, and the City of Ottawa runs household hazardous waste events. Small amounts of water-based paint can be dried out in the can before disposal; check the City’s current guidance.

06Cleaning walls before painting

Paint sticks to clean, dull, sound surfaces. Most peeling interior paint failed because of what was on the wall underneath.

• Dust and cobwebs. Vacuum or wipe walls, especially near ceilings, baseboards and heat registers.
• Kitchen grease. Cooking oil coats kitchen walls, cabinets and ceilings. Wash with a degreaser or a TSP substitute, then rinse with clean water and let it dry.
• Bathroom film. Soap, hairspray and body products leave a film. Wash with warm water and dish soap, then rinse.
• Mildew. Treat with a mildew cleaner, rinse and let it dry fully before painting with a mildew-resistant finish. Persistent mildew means the room needs better ventilation.
• Smoke and water stains. Clean what you can, then seal with a stain-blocking primer (see primers).

07Patching holes and cracks

Good repairs are invisible under paint. Bad ones show as bumps, dips or dull patches.

Thin coats feathered wider each time beat one thick coat every time. Setting-type compound is best for deep fills because it cures hard and shrinks less; premixed lightweight compound is easier to sand for the final coat.

08Sanding and smoothing

Sanding has two jobs: flattening repairs so they disappear, and dulling glossy old paint so the new coat can bond.

• Grits. Use 120–150 grit to knock down ridges and scuff glossy paint, and 180–220 grit to finish patches smooth.
• Pole sanders make walls and ceilings faster and easier on your shoulders.
• The raking light test. Hold a flashlight flat against the wall so the beam skims across it. Every ridge and dip shows up immediately.
• Dust. Vacuum and wipe down after sanding; paint over dust feels gritty and bonds poorly.
• Older homes. Paint applied before about 1960 may contain lead, and some older textures and compounds contain asbestos. Test before sanding.

09When primer matters

“Paint and primer in one” is a good product on sound, previously painted walls in a similar colour. It isn’t a replacement for a dedicated primer in these situations:

• Bare drywall and patches. A drywall primer seals the surface so the finish coat dries evenly instead of flashing.
• Stains. Water, smoke, tannin bleed from knots and marker bleed straight through water-based paint. Use a shellac-based or oil-based stain-blocking primer.
• Glossy or slick surfaces. Old oil paint, varnish, cabinets and laminate need a bonding primer after cleaning and scuff-sanding.
• Big colour changes. Ask the store to tint the primer toward the new colour, or grey under a light colour over a dark wall. It saves a coat.
• Bare wood outside. Exterior wood needs an exterior primer before any colour goes on.

10Using painter’s tape without bleeding

Tape is a tool for floors, glass and hardware, and for crisp colour breaks. On ceiling lines, professionals usually cut in by hand instead (see cutting in).

1. Choose the right tape. Standard painter’s tape for baseboards and woodwork; low-tack “delicate surface” tape for fresh paint and wallpaper.
2. Seal the edge. Press the edge down firmly with a putty knife or a fingernail. For a perfect line on a textured surface, brush a thin coat of the base colour (or clear caulk) along the edge first, so any bleed is invisible.
3. Pull it while the paint is still soft. Remove tape once the last coat is dry to the touch but not hard, pulling slowly back on itself at an angle. If the paint has hardened, score the edge with a utility knife first.
4. Don’t leave tape on for days, especially in sun or heat; the adhesive can transfer.

11The professional painting sequence

Working in the right order saves time and hides mistakes. Gravity decides it: start at the top.

1. Prep the whole room first. Repairs, sanding, priming and caulking are done before any finish paint opens.
2. Ceilings. Spatter lands on walls you haven’t painted yet.
3. Walls. Cut in the edges, then roll each wall while the cut line is still wet.
4. Trim, doors and baseboards last. It’s easier to cut a neat line on trim than on a wall, and the trim coat covers any roller spatter.

Many painters do trim first and walls second instead, because taping trim is harder than cutting walls. Both work; what matters is consistency and clean lines.

12Drying vs. curing

Paint that feels dry isn’t finished yet. Knowing the difference avoids scuffed, stuck or peeling paint.

• Dry to the touch: usually 30 minutes to 2 hours for water-based paint.
• Ready to recoat: often 2–4 hours, longer in cool or humid conditions. Recoating too soon can drag the first coat.
• Full cure: anywhere from several days to about 30 days, depending on the product, temperature and humidity. Enamels on trim and cabinets take the longest.

Until paint has cured: wash gently or not at all, don’t push furniture against walls, don’t tape anything to it, and give doors and cabinets a few extra days before putting on sticky bumpers. The label on the can gives the maker’s times for that product.

13Cutting in like a pro

“Cutting in” means painting the edges with a brush before rolling the rest of the wall. Done well, it’s faster than taping and gives a cleaner line.

1. Use a good brush. A 2–2.5 inch angled sash brush with nylon/polyester bristles for water-based paint.
2. Load it lightly. Dip about a third of the bristles and tap off the excess rather than wiping it.
3. Hold it like a pencil, near the ferrule, not at the end of the handle.
4. Lay the paint down a little away from the line, then ease the bristles up to the edge and draw a long, steady stroke.
5. Cut one wall at a time and roll it while the cut edge is still wet, so it doesn’t “picture frame” (see common mistakes).

14Rolling paint properly

A properly rolled wall has an even, very slight texture with no lines or thin patches.

• Nap size. About 3/8 in (10 mm) for smooth drywall, 1/2 in (13 mm) for light texture, 3/4 in or more for stucco and masonry.
• Load it fully. Roll into the tray until the cover is evenly loaded but not dripping.
• Work in sections of about a metre square, in a loose “W” or “N” pattern, then fill in without lifting the roller.
• Keep a wet edge. Always roll from dry wall back into wet paint. Rolling over paint that has started to set leaves lap marks.
• Finish with light strokes in one direction, floor to ceiling, so the texture is even.

15Painting trim and doors

Trim and doors take more knocks than walls and show every brush mark, so they need harder paint and more care.

• Use an enamel. Waterborne alkyd or urethane-modified acrylic enamels level out smoothly and cure hard without yellowing like oil.
• Scuff-sand between coats with fine paper (220 grit) and wipe off the dust for a smooth finish.
• Caulk first. Fill gaps between trim and wall with paintable caulk, and fill nail holes with wood filler.
• Doors: paint panels first, then the rails (horizontal) and stiles (vertical), following the grain. Take doors off their hinges for the smoothest result.
• Self-levelling additives or slower-drying enamels help brush marks flow out, especially in warm, dry rooms.

16Painting kitchen cabinets

Cabinet painting is the project most likely to go wrong as a DIY. Wall paint on cabinets stays soft, sticks where doors close and peels off the slick factory finish.

1. Degrease everything. Cooking oil is the number-one cause of failure.
2. Scuff-sand to dull the finish, then remove all dust.
3. Fill oak grain if you want a smooth look; otherwise the texture shows through.
4. Use a bonding primer made for slick surfaces.
5. Finish with a cabinet enamel, ideally sprayed in thin coats for a smooth, brush-mark-free surface.
6. Be patient. Cabinet enamel takes weeks to harden fully.

Peeling thermofoil, water-damaged boxes and a layout that doesn’t work are signs that painting isn’t the answer. See kitchen cabinet painting and paint or replace your cabinets.

17Painting brick and masonry

Painting exterior brick is popular, but the wrong coating can trap moisture and, through Ottawa’s freeze-thaw cycles, cause the brick faces to flake off (spalling).

• Use breathable coatings. Mineral silicate paint bonds with the masonry and is very vapour-permeable. Limewash soaks in and lets the wall breathe. Masonry stains change the colour without forming a film.
• Avoid sealing brick with standard acrylic house paint.
• Elastomeric coatings are not the answer on brick. They bridge hairline cracks in stucco and keep rain out, but they let little vapour through.
• Limewash gives a soft, chalky, varied look. It doesn’t peel, but it wears gradually and is refreshed every several years.
• Fix moisture and mortar first. Efflorescence, crumbling joints and splashback all need attention before any coating.
• Think twice. Paint is very hard to remove from brick, and heritage districts usually discourage painting unpainted brick.

More detail on our brick and stucco painting page.

18Painting in Ottawa weather

Exterior painting in Ottawa runs roughly from May to early October, and every day depends on the forecast.

• Temperature. Follow the label. Many exterior paints need about 10 °C or warmer, while low-temperature formulas can be applied down to around 2–4 °C. The surface temperature matters as much as the air, and it should stay in range while the paint dries.
• Dew point. Surfaces must be dry and a few degrees above the dew point. Late-afternoon painting in spring and fall can trap evening dew in the fresh film.
• Frost and rain. Paint needs several hours without rain, and no frost before it has set.
• Sun. Don’t paint a south or west wall in full midday sun in summer; it bakes the paint before it levels. Follow the shade around the house.
• Wind. Wind dries paint too fast and blows dust into it.

19Exterior colours for Ottawa

An Ottawa house spends about five months against snow and grey skies and four against green trees. Good exterior colours work in both.

• Warm whites with black or charcoal trim look crisp in summer and clean in winter.
• Deep blues, greens and charcoals stand out against snow; on vinyl, stay within the vinyl-safe range.
• Greige, taupe and soft grey-greens suit brick and stone fronts common in Ottawa suburbs.
• Front doors are the easiest place for a bold colour.
• Test big. Paint large samples on two sides of the house and look at them in morning and evening light.

Ottawa doesn’t have American-style HOAs, but condo corporations and some subdivisions control exterior colours through their declarations or architectural guidelines, and heritage districts have their own rules. Check before you buy paint.

20Maintenance and longevity

A good interior paint job lasts many years in bedrooms and living rooms and less in busy hallways; exteriors usually last 5–8 years on wood and longer on vinyl, aluminum and fibre cement.

• Clean gently. A soft sponge, warm water and a drop of dish soap. Melamine “magic erasers” are mildly abrasive and can leave shiny or dull spots.
• Store touch-up paint properly. Keep it indoors, sealed and labelled, away from frost. Paint that freezes can be ruined.
• Touch up early. Small chips on trim and doors are easy to fix before water or wear gets under them.
• Outside, check every spring: cracked caulk, peeling on south walls, mildew on north walls and snow damage on lower boards.
• Wash siding every year or two to remove dirt and mildew before they break the paint down.

21Questions to ask a painter

Anyone can buy a roller, so ask the questions that separate a professional from a gamble.

• “Do you carry liability insurance, and can I see the certificate?” It protects your home if something is damaged.
• “Can you provide a WSIB clearance certificate?” For contractors who need WSIB coverage, a clearance certificate shows their workers are covered if someone is hurt on your job.
• “What’s your prep process?” Listen for cleaning, filling, sanding, spot priming and caulking, not “we just start rolling.”
• “Which paint, which line and how many coats?” A premium line and two coats should be written into the quote.
• “Who will actually do the work?” Your crew or subcontractors?
• “What’s your warranty, and what does it cover?” Get it in writing.
• “Will you test for lead in an older home?” If the house is pre-1960 and surfaces will be sanded or scraped.

22Comparing painting quotes

Three quotes for the same job can be far apart, usually because they don’t describe the same job. Compare them line by line.

• Scope. Which rooms and surfaces: walls, ceilings, trim, doors, closets?
• Prep. Is patching, sanding, priming and caulking included, or extra?
• Products. Which brand and line? Premium paint costs much more per can than contractor-grade, and it covers and washes better.
• Coats. Two finish coats, or one?
• Protection and cleanup. Moving furniture, covering floors, daily cleanup and paint disposal.
• Schedule, payment terms and warranty.

A quote far below the others usually means less prep, cheaper paint, one coat, or no insurance. Ask what’s different before deciding.

23What a painting contract should include

A clear written agreement protects both sides. It should include:

1. Scope of work: every room and surface, and what’s excluded.
2. Prep and products: the repairs included, the primer, the paint brand, line, sheen and colours, and the number of coats.
3. Schedule: the start date, expected duration and how weather delays are handled for exteriors.
4. Payment: a reasonable deposit, with the balance due after the final walkthrough and touch-ups are complete.
5. Insurance and WSIB: certificates provided before work starts.
6. Cleanup and disposal: daily tidying, and leftover paint and waste handled properly.
7. Warranty: length and what it covers, in writing.

24DIY or hire a pro?

Painting a bedroom is a reasonable weekend project. Some jobs are worth handing off.

The real cost of DIY is time: a professional crew can paint a room in a day that takes a homeowner a full weekend, and they bring the ladders, staging and sprayers.

25Common painting mistakes and fixes

Most paint problems have a known cause and a straightforward fix.

• Flashing (dull spots over patches): the patch wasn’t primed. Fix: spot-prime and repaint the wall.
• Picture framing (a darker border around the wall): the cut line dried before rolling. Fix: cut and roll one wall at a time.
• Lap marks: rolling over paint that had started to set. Fix: keep a wet edge; repaint the wall corner to corner.
• Peeling: paint over dirt, grease, gloss or moisture. Fix: scrape, clean, sand, prime and repaint.
• Bleed-through stains: water-based paint over a stain. Fix: a stain-blocking primer, then paint.
• Sticky doors and shelves: paint hasn’t cured. Fix: give it time; avoid closing doors hard on fresh paint.